Showing posts with label burger. Show all posts
Showing posts with label burger. Show all posts

Friday, April 27, 2018

Ruth, Peter, Joe

My concussion headache is especially bad one Friday, that feeling of having been hit upside the head with a baseball bat around the back of my head, in the same place we’re shown Julius Caesar regularly wore a crown of leaves. Instead of staying inside, I force myself out of bed, wincing and squinting as I shove my body into first jeans then shoes then a jacket, flinging sunglasses onto my face. I go get coffee, which I’m not entirely sure I’m supposed to be drinking, and walk to the park near my house. The sky is a clear blue, a gorgeous day for people who can open their eyes without pain, who can walk their dogs along the sunny path by the river without fear of crumpling to the ground. The air has a crisp chill, warm enough to wear a coat open with a t-shirt. I find a bench to sit on, casually perusing their nameplates because occasionally you find a really sassy one that’s just gold. The one I ultimately choose to sit on is dedicated to a lady named Ruth Zimmerman--just a nice memorial, no shade.

My headache slowly begins to dissolve as I sip my coffee and stare at the water. But after I am seated for a few minutes, an older gentleman comes over. He’s perusing the labels too, a book in his hand, tweed jacket on his back, silver-rimmed spectacles on his eyes. His white hair is gently moved by the breeze.

“Excuse me,” he says politely. “Do you mind if I look at this bench?”

People have asked me weirder things in New York, so no, I don’t mind. I get up so he can see it. He looks at the nameplate.

“This was my wife,” he says. “She died recently. My daughter got this for her.”
“Oh, I’m so sorry,” I say, instinctively patting his shoulder. I really need to stop doing that to strangers.
“Do you mind if I sit here?” he says. There’s a small drop of water hanging from the tip of his nose as if he’d been crying. Of course I don’t mind, and I move to another bench nearby.

The man sits with his book in his lap for a while and moves to the left of the bench as if leaving the nameplate exposed so Ruth can sit next to him. He stares at the water and breathes, a sharp intake of air every so often.

“Oh Ruth,” I want to say. “He misses you so much.”

*

On Friday evenings, the Morgan Library is open free to the public. They have an exhibition on of photographer Peter Hujar’s work from throughout his career and I am looking forward to seeing it. There is something I’ve always loved about his photographs, how even pictures of babies have darkness and depth and mournful soul to them, their creamy black and white contrasts illuminating just the right details, just the right shadows on every subject. Many of his images are centered, I notice, as if he never cared for unusual angles or focal points, just the subject as it was, almost a blend of documentary and portraiture--here is this thing, centered, exactly as I see it, without frill.

There’s a Susan Sontag quote on the wall. “The ultimate wisdom of the photographed image is to say: ‘There is the surface. Now, think--or, rather, feel, intuit--what is beyond it, what the reality must be like if it looks this way.’ Strictly speaking, there is never any understanding in a photograph, but only an invitation to fantasy and speculation.” Veins snake outward ominously from legs, reclining figures invite you into their bedrooms, tattoos belie other lives outside the lens. They are transportive and intimate, full of grace.

Hujar, I learn, was inspired by “those who wore their otherness on the outside,” people who were unapologetically themselves, especially those in the downtown New York arts scene of the 1970s. I’ve been asked to explain my own work recently and my own descriptions of it are the same. I wonder if this is why I’ve always been so drawn to his images, their chronicling of lives so different from Hujar’s own, so beautiful in their defiance of norms: specifically, as the exhibition quotes Hujar, “those who push themselves to any extreme” and “cling to the freedom to be themselves.” He was “a connoisseur of life as a performance--and an artist who believed his medium could expose realities behind the surfaces of the world.” There are moments when someone’s description of their own work grabs a hold of your heart and refuses to unlatch itself. This was one of those.

Hujar’s images are a history of the time, this intersection of art and gender and culture at what is arguably one of the most culturally heightened, prolific times in the city during the last century. They are a history of art and life, of sex and death.

Outside of the exhibition, there’s a chronology of Hujar’s much too short time on this earth. It’s strange how such a display of someone’s life reduces it to a series of bullet points.

*

I leave the Morgan and my head starts hurting again. The night air has dropped a few degrees from the daytime, and I button up my coat. My brain seeks out a hamburger and french fries, a rather unusual request from said source, so I decide to honor it. My legs carry me to Joe Junior, an iconic, classic New York diner on 17th Street and 3rd Avenue, taking me down Park Avenue on the way there. Wind softly whips into my cheeks. I’ve never been to Joe Junior, but I’ve heard tell of their excellent hamburgers. Sidling up to their lunch counter--it’s one of my favorite ways to sit in a restaurant these days--I admire the mirror and wood-panel walls that scream of the 1970s, the short blush stools, the beige wraparound counter, the old rusting cash register with real buttons you can press with your real fingers. I order a patty melt please, medium on whole wheat with swiss cheese, sauteed onions and mushrooms. Biting into it, the toast is crispy and buttery, the meat juicy, the onions sweet. My headache has dissipated again and it might return, but for now my other senses are gratefully distracted.

Sunday, January 7, 2018

Top Great Moments I Didn't Write About But Should Have: 2017 Edition

As ever, my list of my favorite moments I wanted to write about but didn't in 2017.

Work It
There was so much work I did that I was proud of this year, including but not limited to launching Miss Manhattan Hangs Out, which taught and continues to teach me how exciting and beautiful people are, whether you are watching them perform standup comedy in a park, rehearse on a piano, or play with their dogs.

I was excited to write for several dream publications like Vogue, Vanity Fair, Town & Country, and Billboard (one of which resulted in a tweet from RuPaul) as well as become a contributing writer at Cools; the Copy Editor and Staff Writer at Treats!; Copy Editor at The Unseasonal; to continue to work on stories I'm proud of for Vice like those I did on Peche Di, Joel Kim Booster, Cole Escola, Village Grannies, and Brooklyn Drag. I was also ecstatic to write a story about airline La Compagnie for Men's Journal, which took me to Paris; to photograph the LGBTQ Anti-Prom at the New York Public Library for Racked, which taught me that the kids will be alright; interview legendary documentary director Errol Morris for Tablet; and write a story that took me to Green-Wood Cemetery for The Village Voice's print edition before it went fully digital.

I also appeared on my first radio show, Young Person's Radio with Colby Smith, on Radio Free Brooklyn; hosted a panel at the Miami Book Fair and attended their gorgeous after-party at The Standard Hotel in Miami; spoke to undergraduates at my university about careers in the humanities; was invited by a gallery to a dinner with its artists; and attended a cocktail party where I talked to Ted Allen for 20 minutes without fangirling.

If You Want to Destroy My Sweater...

SE and I went to see a Weezer cover band called The Sweater Songs at Mercury Lounge. Originally, we thought it would just be a kitschy, weird time, and it definitely was, but the band was also incredible and totally rockin' (especially their bassist Oscar Rodriguez, who we both later decided we had a crush on). Everyone got a free pair of Rivers Cuomo-style glasses, too.

Elliot Erwitt
I've loved Elliott Erwitt's photography since I first saw it in college, especially the way he found the humor in everything (which I think makes his work even more beautiful). A photographer with legendary agency Magnum, he was in attendance at the opening of the International Center of Photography's Magnum exhibition earlier last year. So was I. I went over to him to say hello and say thank you so much for his work. He said, "Okay." We took a selfie, which seems grotesque to ask of a photographer of his caliber, but...it is what it is. 

Nailess

The week of SD's bachelorette party, we decided to go get manicures--nail art, specifically. But the place we decided to go had an hour-long wait. The next place had no appointments available...nor did the next, or the next or the next. We Googled venues in our phones to see if there was someplace we could go, eventually just wandering all the way up from Canal Street to 14th Street in hopes of stumbling on one. We never found anything, but we laughed the whole way and settled instead to have a glass of wine at Feast, followed by ramen burgers at Yonekichi in the East Village, and dessert tapas at Spot on St. Marks Place. Things didn't go exactly as we planned, but it was one of those nights I'm happy to have shared with her before her big day. She got married in October in a beautiful wedding in Pennsylvania, and I wish her and her husband a lifetime of happiness. 

Spatchcock
For some reason in the ferocious summer heat, SJT and I decided to cook. And not just cook, but spatchcock a chicken, roasting it in his apartment that had only a small fan in the kitchen. We were sweating while salting and spicing, and SJT taught me how to chiffonade herbs. While the chicken roasted, we sat in his heavily air-conditioned bedroom with SE and L sipping Georgian wine. He did a marvelous job seasoning the chicken, and it was juicy and wonderful. After dinner, we all went back to his room to eat rice pudding and jam. Spending time with friends is one thing, but cooking with them is somehow even better.

DiscoverHERE
DiscoverHERE is a program developed by theatre artist Nate Bertone, who I had the pleasure of meeting this past summer. I instantly liked his genuine nature, his kindness, his belief in his work. DiscoverHERE is meant to remind what it means to be "here," to remember the present. I attended a version of one of these events at the beginning of fall, just cold enough to wear a jacket and wrap it tightly around you as it gets colder. I listened to people share about their lives with honesty and vulnerability I don't know that I've seen before or since, and I even shared something of myself. I listened more at first--I didn't know if I wanted to share, if I trusted the people sitting in a circle around me, but the more they talked, the more I understood they were coming from a genuine place, so I could too. While Nate is traveling for work for a while, the program had been run in Lululemon's Chelsea space and I hope will continue once he comes back. It takes a lot to make a person, let alone a New Yorker, feel comfortable in a group of strangers, but somehow Nate and co. have developed the formula to be able to do it.

Bushwig
Bushwig, the independent Brooklyn drag festival hosted by Horrorchata, just completed its fifth year and despite my love of all things drag, I only attended for the first time this year while working on the aforementioned article. It was a weekend of extraordinary indoor and outdoor performances with a punk rock sensibility, massive heels, impossibly high wigs, glitter on top of glitter on top of glitter and gender-bending gorgeousness I will not soon forget...and I will definitely be back next year.


"Bougie, but nice"
Mag, AR, M, and I left a gallery opening crowded with people in search of hamburgers. But not just any hamburgers, ones that were like, you know, a little more interesting. Ones that, I made the mistake of saying, were "bougie. but nice." I meant "bougie. but cheap," because none of us felt like paying our rent for an interesting hamburger. But just like a strange cheese, maybe a weird bread, some unusual mustard...you know the deal. So we wandered over to Whitmans in the East Village for our inexpensive treats, and I do not remember a second where we weren't laughing, telling jokes and weird stories, then hopping down to another restaurant for wine and tiramisu. It was cold out, but the company was warm.

Lobster on a Budget
I've written before about this thing that HanOre and I do called a high-low evening, where we do something like go eat borscht then have a fancy cocktail. But then I spotted $14 lobsters at Fairway. I texted her a picture of these mythical creatures and suggested our next evening was in order. Her home would be the venue, with pan-roasted cauliflower, sushi, Cabernet Sauvignon, Prosecco, and Frank Sinatra. We cracked our lobsters and dipped their innards in butter, later cracking open New York magazine's 50th Anniversary book and dipping our fingers into a black and white cookie from Agata & Valentina. We may have outdone ourselves.

The Pink Spiders
Back when I was a young aspiring punk who occasionally shopped at Hot Topic (oh man, I can't believe I just started a sentence that way), my favorite band was a band called The Pink Spiders. They were like if the Ramones and the early Beatles had a love child that was raised in Nashville, and I loved them. I physically own every CD (yes, CD!) every album they ever made, and I know all of their songs by heart. But I only had the opportunity to see them one time, many moons ago in college, and I accidentally only saw part of their set because they started earlier than I thought. But this time, after years apart, they had gotten back together--or rather, the lead singer reassembled the band with new members--and they would be playing in Brooklyn. So I topped all of my pleases with whipped cream and a cherry on top for SE to please come with me to this show late on a "school night" and he did. And it was amazing. There are so few concerts I go to where I know every word to every song a band plays, but I did that night (except for their two new ones) and I shook and shook and shook my body to the shredding of their guitars, the beating of their drums in a way that the me of 15 years ago always wanted to.

Saturday, July 7, 2012

The Burger That Dreams Are Made Of


Let me preface this by saying I do not normally dream about food.

It is a rare occasion I will enjoy a meal so much that I will go back and eat it again in a dream, let alone in real life. Sometimes I simply am not inspired to do so in either respect.

But I have dreamt about this burger, because I imagine my subconscious felt one experience of eating it in an evening was not enough and it instantly required more.

-

Having the pleasure of dining out with JW, who I had not seen in a year plus, we were initially going to go someplace else in the East Village, when I thought of the burger at The Toucan and the Lion. I stopped in my tracks and gasped. “What’s wrong?” JW said, and rightfully so. It was a simple burst of inspiration that had manifested itself in appearance as a moment of terror. When it dawned on me that this restaurant, where everything I had sampled was simply sublime (in my mind as I write this I am saying the word as the French do—“soo-bleem”), was also close by, I proposed JW look at the menu and see if it was to her liking. It was, and in we went. 

Perhaps I should have written about this restaurant before. Perhaps I should have noted its petite bar snuggled by a long, high-top wooden communal table, its other dining room with lovely little white metal tables, lit by white chandeliers giving off subtly orange light. Perhaps I should have written about the adorable waiters and the air of modern yet casual elegance that pervades the small space. But more ‘perhaps’ than anything, I should have written about the burger.

I first read about this burger in New York magazine, and I thought it sounded strange and weird, a coma-inducing calorie fest that one simply should not eat more than once in a lifetime for fear of one’s health. On Chinese bao bun, the burger is topped with cashew butter and bacon. Maybe it doesn’t sound too wild. Maybe it’s not a violently long list of complicated ingredients that would be of interest to foodies, including words like ‘confit’ and ‘radicchio’. But that’s also what makes it amazing.

Bacon—not too complicated, the candy of meats; sweet, salty, generally delicious and occasionally worth the cult following it has inspired in recent years. Perfectly cooked.

Cashew Butter—Sweet but not too sweet, nutty (duh), and creamy; also not too complicated.

Bao bun—slim, doesn’t get in the way, allows the burger’s flavors to speak for itself. A little bit sweet and doughy-tasting (is that a thing? I’m trying not to sound like a d-bag, but I don’t know if it’s working), but it seals the deal.

Now put those three together and add delicious, juicy ground beef, and you, too, will have discovered one of the keys of the universe. It is a life-changing burger, the candle to which I will hold all other burgers in the future.

Once you take a bite, you just don’t want it to end. Each bite is salty, creamy, tangy, sweet, juicy, and utterly delectable. I wind my way slowly through it, making sure each mouthful has the perfect amount of cashew butter, beef, bacon and roll. Sometimes the cashew butter slides out and you have to redistribute it with a knife. But should you order it, make sure you truly savor each mouthful. Enjoy it with your eyes closed. See the flavors, taste them, smell them, feel them. Eat slowly. Long after JW had finished her equally brilliant Arctic Char, I was just beginning my second half of burger (I cut it so it didn’t squish everywhere), almost laughably savoring each bite. I urge you to do the same. You will not be disappointed.

Or, as JW said, "Maybe that's what love feels like, like you've just eaten a really good burger."

I certainly hope so.